Installation Specifications and Guidelines
LIQUID Glass Collections by CERAMICA etc…
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BEFORE USING THE PRODUCT, PLEASE READ THE IMPORTANT GENERAL PRODUCT INFORMATION AND CHARACTERISTICS.
FOR APPLICATIONS, USAGE AND PRODUCT PERFORMANCE, PLEASE CONTACT YOUR VENDOR, LOCAL DISTRIBUTOR OR DEALER.
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Our ecological glass collections are made of 100% recycled glass and partially handmade. Shade variation, thickness variation within the same piece and between all sizes, individual pieces and mosaics, surface undulation within the piece and from piece to piece is inherent and characteristic of the product. Not two pieces look alike and this is not considered a defect. It is the intended overall aesthetic appeal of the product.
Information on these pages is offered as a back ground or guidelines for installation, no warranty is implied. Please follow ANSI & TCA installation guidelines. All installations differ from each other, for specific and selected installation contact your PROFESSIONAL INSTALLER. Installing glass tile involves some basic procedures that differ from installing ceramic, porcelain or stone tile. Following these procedures should prevent simple mistakes that could result in the failure of the installation.
This guideline does not include water exposed installation such as fountains or swimming pools. Please contact your professional swimming pool contractor and follow ANSI & TCA SPECIFICATIONS and GUIDELINES.
Please carefully read enclosed installation instructions. Absolutely NO CLAIMS of any nature will be accepted after installation of product. Manufacturer will not accept any claims or returns for product after is has been installed or any damaged product out of its original well packed and protected box.
Substrate preparation:
Since any crack in a glass tile is very visible, the use of a crack isolation membrane (ANSI A118.12-2005) over the surface is strongly recommended. Many substrates may continue to cure and shrink over a period of months, and a crack isolation membrane may prevent shrinkage or movement of the substrate to mirror through or damage the tile. If a crack isolation membrane is not used, neither the distributor nor the manufacturer will accept any responsibility should any cracking occur.
Make sure that glass tile is installed over the proper, well cured, stable, clean and flat substrate and that all walls have right and straight angles, square and plumb. This one is the most important factor in ensuring a good installation.
“Out of plumb” walls will contribute to added pressure on the tiles and may result in the cracking/shattering of the glass tile.
Substrate should be free of cracks and in water areas should be waterproof. Glass tile is a reflective product. Any inconsistencies in your substrate will show up after the tile is installed and contribute to potential installation failures.
Approved surfaces for setting for all our Ecological Glass Collections:
• Fully cured concrete substrate
• Properly installed cement backer board.
Do NOT INSTALL GLASS TILE ON:
• Particle board
• Chipboard
• Masonite
• Plywood
• Asbestos boards
• Press wood
For pool and fountains, we recommend consulting and following the TCA methods before installation.
• For membrane information please contact:
• Protecto wrap: www.protectowrap.com 1800-759-9727
• N.A.C: www.nac-anti-fracture.com 1800-633-4622
• Mapei: www.mapei.com 1800-42-MAPEI
• Flex guardL www.flexguardproducts.com 180-279-7600
• Proflex: www.proflex.com 1877-538-3437
Setting materials
Use a white thin-set mortar (2-component, flexible, rapid cure, acrylic thin set mortar system, such as GraniRapid by Mapei or any similar qualified formula composition) formulated for interior and exterior wall installations.
Loose tile installation:
Spread the adhesive with a notched trowel following the manufacturer’s recommendations (in many cases a 3/8” V-notch trowel). Use only the thin-set manufacturer’s minimum recommended thickness of thin-set, we recommend not to exceed 3/8”. Do not overbuild the adhesive, as it will shrink and add stress or crack the glass. Spread only as much adhesive as can be covered with the tile within 15 minutes.
Use the flat side of the trowel to apply a THIN layer of mortar to each individual tile, clean and smooth the ridges. Firmly press the tile against the mortar bed and back buttered to provide a void-free installation, avoid hollow tile and allow 100% contact with the mortar bed.
Install the glass tiles leaving even spacing between tiles of at least 1/8” (3.1mm). Use plastic spacers for even installation.
Install control joints where the tile abuts restraining surfaces and around the perimeter of the tile work, a minimum ¼” gap between the perimeter of the tile and the wall. Do not hard grout. Silicone sealant caulking must be installed in all corner joints instead of grout. Allow the adhesive to cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions (at least 72 hours)
Face mounted mosaic tile installation:
The mosaics are face mounted with a clear special plastic sheet, allowing a 100% bonding of each individual piece to the mortar. This sheet evenly holds up each individual piece. It allows seeing through the face of the product for easier aligning of the sheets and the pieces, as well as easier cutting, practical manipulation with minimal waste.
Using a 3/8” v-notched trowel, spread a layer of minimum 3/8” and maximum ½” thick mortar. Use a ruler to line up the base of the sheet. With the PLASTIC SHEET FACING OUT, apply the sheet directly to the thin-set. Use a long flat object (such as a grout paddle) to lightly press the tiles into the thin set and even the surface.
Install the face mounted mosaic tile sheets leaving even spacing between tiles of at least 1/12” (2mm).
Thin set drying times varies. Make sure the THINSET HAS DRIED BEFORE PEELING OFF THE PLASTIC SHEET from the tiles. Remove the sheet with a firm, even pull. Then proceed with grout.
Grouting:
Remove all excess mortar and completely clean the surface. Allow minimum 96 hours before grouting. Consult with your mortar manufacturer for specific procedures, instructions and recommendations such as drying and cure times, especially under submersion surface.
Cutting:
Glass tile should be cut upside down (face down) on a wet saw using a diamond blade designed for cutting glass. A blade for cutting glass is thin, with smaller diamonds than a tile blade, has a continuous rim and generally runs at a slower speed. Glass tile is cut with the glazed or back side up. The rotation of the saw blade should enter the glass from the glazed side. Ensure adequate water or coolant is provided. Whenever possible, cut edges should be placed in corners after cutting. It may be more convenient and cost effective to mark your cuts and take the tile to a professional glass shop for cutting and drilling. A ring of bank saw designed for cutting glass makes cutting curves easier. Blades for cutting glass tiles are available from many tile distributors.
Note: a blade designed for cutting ceramic tiles is coarse and will chip the glass. Straight cuts general do not result in additional stress to the glass tile, but notched cuts may add stress and cause cracking of the glass at the inside corner. A standard ceramic tile cutter is not recommended.
For we and band saw information, please contact:
• Plasplugs: www.plasplugs.com 1800-966-6400
• MK Diamond: www.mkdiamond.com 1800-845-3729
• Gemini Saw: www.geminisaw.com 310-891-0288
• Diamond tech: www.diamondsaws.com 1800-937-9593
Drilling:
Drilling a hole requires the use of a drill bit or coring drill that is designed for glass. If the drill and glass cannot be securely clamped in place, drill a small pilot hole through the glass to act as a guide. Always use a proper glass drill bit, keep the drill bit and hole lubricated with turpentine or water to keep the bit cool as to not overheat the tile, and drill at a very slow pace. Start drilling from the back of the tile and complete the hole by drilling from the face of the tile. Attempting to drill all the way through from tone side will cause the glass to chip off on the exit side of the hole, or break the tile.
Important: drill a hole about 1/8” (3mm) larger than any anchors you plan to use. This will prevent stress transfer from the fixture to the glass tile. Ensure anchors are well secured to the structure (not only to the substrate) and do not allow fixtures to rest directly on the glass.
Safety and protection:
• Always wear protective glasses when cutting or drilling holes.
• Handle glass tiles with caution. Sharp edges could cut you.
• Sanding down the edges with fine frit sand paper will dull the sharp edges,
• Wear safety gloves and glasses when sanding.
• The contractor shall take precautions to protect the finished work from damage by other trades.
• Do not allow construction traffic on fresh tile or grout joints.
• Allow the grout to cure for a minimum of 7 days before aggressive use or steam cleaning.
Cleaning and Maintenance:
NO ACID SHOULD BE USED FOR CLEANING GROUT HAZE
For routine cleaning, use any non-abrasive cleaning compound recommended for glass tile (such as ammonia and water, etc.) Follow rinsing instructions carefully. Do not use hard and abrasive cleaning tools (sandpaper, hard brush, etc…)
For further specific details, please contact your dealer or local distributor.